7 Oct. Carrion de Los Condes to Ledigos. 23.4 km


We were up and out early before day break because, when 18 other people are rummaging through their stuff and the lights are turned on, there isn't much point in trying to sleep. We knew we had an easy, flat 17.3 km to our planned destination so we were eager to get started. We decided to forgo coffee and breakfast as the map showed a town-the only town- about 4-5 km out. So the Brilliant twins left with only a few pieces of fruit and water. Turns out our town was an aqueduct in the middle of nowhere.

Knowing we'd be at our destination by noon at the latest, we noted the lesson learned and forged ahead to a rock picnic table where we ate our apples and sipped water. We were joined by a fellow pilgrim from Norway who had made an entire baguette into a huge sandwich sliced to share. A few other pilgrims joined us an everyone was offered a piece of the feast.

By 11:30 we'd reached our destination, got coffee and fruit and decided to go to the next town. We are happily situated ina private room that we did not intend to find in a town that has no market and the church is locked up tight. But our albergue is delightful and when we found the public washing machine broken, the hostess took our laundry and did it for us. What a treat- no scrubbing on washboards and trying to find clothesline space amid all the other identical pilgrim laundry.

A word about albergues. They come in many shapes and sizes and there is no one size fits all description. Thus far, we have been mostly pleased. We have slept in rooms of 30 people down to rooms for four and the nasty room for three and occasionally we splurge for a room for 2 because sleep is important.

Bathroom accomodations are equally diverse. Some are of the unisex variety and those tend to have more private showers, though not always. Some albergues have separate men's and women's bathrooms but an open door can ruin any sense of privacy. In most of the albergues there can be as few as two showers for up to 100 people, in which case pilgrims try to rush so as to make the showers available for the next person which may mean not bothering to get dressed before exiting the shower. It can be very interesting and modesty is not a high priority on the Camino.

Most pilgrims are generous and thoughtful and do their best to allow others to get adequate rest. After all, that is the point of the albergues- a hospital or rest stop for pilgrims. However, as with any other time many humans are put in close proximity, there will be issues. Two nights ago in a large albergue there were two groups of young people determined to have a good time. The first group of Germans came in loudly well after curfew. After they got settled and those with tummy issues finished their loud wrenching, it was time for the second group from South Korea to commence the same routine. Oy. Then last night we found ourselves in the company of the loud Korean group again. Thus the retreat to the private room to catch up on some much needed sleep!

Buen Camino

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