Journeying Together

30 Sept  Villamayor to Villafranca About 17 km We've moved out of wine country and into farmland. Mikes and miles of vines have been replaced with dark brown earth freshly tilled with what the nose tells us is pig manure.  Last night the hostess of the albergue cooked us a marvelous dinner of creamed vegetable soup, salad, pork chops, friend potatoes- most of which came from her garden. We ate it around a table with French women who sang to us folk songs of the Camino in beautiful harmony, and friends from Israel, Italy and the US. Amazing conversation all around.  Dad and I started the day before sunrise. This time there was no getting lost although, with it being Saturday, we went through 3 towns before the coffee shops opened for business. The day threatened to rain but held back, thankfully. So that we had a cool trek through peaceful hills and valleys and arrived at our albergue just past noon. Lunch today was provided after a trip to the supermercado for cheese

Sept 29 Santo Domingo to Villamayor about 18 km Actually, we walked more than 18 km if you count the steps we took walking out of town in the dark with a fellow pilgrim, none of whom saw the sign to the path. We just keep walking along the highway until some kind stranger pulled over and indicated in gestures that we should go back and turn right. A discouraging yet blessed start to the day.  Our trek was punctuated with lovely towns and we stopped short of the guidebook suggestion, having looked ahead and deciding to break up the next few days to make it a bit easier on ourselves. There is no need for us to rush this.  The hills are getting easier and hopefully that's a sign that we're getting a bit stronger.  On the advice of a fellow pilgrim we have found a lovely albergue outside of town. The hostess is in the kitchen cooking our dinner with vegetables she picked out of her garden. It smells delicious. We haven't even been motivated to go into town, it

Sept 27 For those who may be skeptical about our accomodations. Even in the previous bunk rooms we did not sleep this close to anyone. For the record, we paid for the third bed just to maintain some sanity! And for your added enjoyment, the beautiful courtyard with dad hanging the laundry!

Sept 28 Najera to Santo Domingo de la Calzada 21.3 km Perhaps the best day yet! We're learning as we're going. A good nights sleep is particularly helpful. Springing for the private room last night was helpful. We were also prepared with fruit and the towns were perfectly placed today. The first stop for breakfast was an easy 6+ km. Then, after fortifying ourselves with some food, it was an 8+ km trek up a fairly tough hill to Ciruena. We were rewarded at the top with a shady picnic spot. Lovely place to put up our feet and have our fruit before the final 6 km to Santo Domingo. Our accommodations are not quite as nice. We're at an old convent perhaps. The sparse accommodations and the parade of nuns give it away. The steps remind m of an old amusement park fun house. And beds are crammed in every spare corner. We are in a room with just three beds and thankfully not bunks. But there is literally not walking room between the beds. I'll try to post a picture lat

Sept 27. Navarrette to Najera 16.2 km Today we splurged. For 30 euros we got a room with two twin beds. Not bunk beds. No one has to climb up and down the ladder. Neither of us has to sit up and smack our heads. There are not six or 30 other bunk mates. It seems extravagant. Even though I just did my laundry by hand and hung it on a community line and the bathroom is down the hall.  Odd how perspective changes.  We traveled the past 3 days the distance the guide says takes 2. Today was a short day and it seems we need it. We did not travel smart—not enough breaks. We went all 10 miles straight in 4 hours. We left Navarrette without getting coffee as the map indicated a small town with coffee just a few miles down the road. The map failed to indicated that to get to that town meant a few km detour up a very steep hill. We did not choose the detour, thus resulting in one cranky, headachey pilgrim! (You can figure out which one) Lesson learned: get coffee first, make sure your wa

Sept 26 Viana to Navarrette 22.1 km Signs are very important on the Camino. The way is marked by yellow arrows, a variety of scallop shells and occasionally the friendly homemade diagnostic to point the way, as with the arrow above. At times they are obvious. At times a gift of the way is the teamwork involved in finding the sign. No pilgrim wants to take too many steps in the wrong direction. The first part of the journey today--from Viana to Logorno was relatively easy. But Logorno is the first big town we've had to navigate. And the signs pointing the way through we're far and few between. We've been traveling at the same pace as Anita and her husband, from Sweden. We entered Logrono together and at intersections would literally fan out looking-on walls, on the ground, for the arrow, maybe the shell-until someone would call out, "Over here." More than once there were other pilgrims joining the hide and seek. As we entered Navarrette, hot, tired, my fee

Sept 25. Los Arcos to Viana. 18.4 km The guide suggested we go 28.7 km to Logrono. Our feet thought differently. We had a glorious day of walking through olive groves and vineyards; up lots of hill and back down, through picturesque towns. We're both getting a bit more accustomed to walking so much and with a pack. We've learned to buy fruit the night before for short rest stops under a tree chatting with other pilgrims. Today's generosity moment was a lovely man from Korea who bought a piece of watermelon for his post walking snack, cut off a big chunk for dad and I to share while we contacted family. Our amusing moment today happened when we thought it would be quaint to stay at Santa Maria's only to find out that those accommodations consisted of a mat on the floor and no shower. It's hard to imagine how much we look forward to those showers each day! Off to find dinner. The restaurants have chalk boards advertising the pilgrims selections. One of them wa

Sept 24 from Estella to Los Arcos. 21.9 km Today just seemed long. Very long. We walked through miles and miles of farmland with no villages or towns in sight. Over every fret and around every bend we thought Los Wrcos had to appear. Most towns are visible on hills to miles. Not this one. Then, around the last bent there it was.  It's a very small town and it's a Sunday so everything is closed with the exception of a few restaurants with pilgrims menus. Tonight's fare was a big bowl of bans with chorizo followed with fried pork and wine and then ice cream-one of those silly children's cones wrapped in paper. Nothing ever tasted so good.  If we were to follow the map, our course would be 29 km tomorrow. Based on our hurting feet and tired shoulder and the heat, we expect to keep it to our customary 20 or so.  Off to Mass.  Buen Camino

Sept 23, 2017 Day 1 under our belts. We made it from Pamplona to Puenta la Reina (23.9 km). We woke up to thunder and rain so started the journey in our rain ponchos which double as a personal sauna. Even with jet lag, the newness of the journey kept me putting one foot in front of the other. The day was filled with blessings--the rain stopped but the clouds kept it fairly cool. Stops for breakfast and a fruit treat in the afternoon allow for meeting fellow pilgrims. Near the end of the journey we met a local man sitting on a bench just handing out freshly picked figs to pilgrims. And the evening included a loud street fair and a concert in a gorgeous church.  There's a camaraderie here that is unmatched-pilgrims making room at tables for other pilgrims to share a seat,  laundry hangs together on common clothes lines. Bathrooms are unisex and the sleeping arrangements are not by gender. Odd to wake up and find a man from Brazil in his skivvies dressing by the bunk across th

Sept 20, 2017 My gate is at the far end of this terminal at O’Hare. O’Hare, not Philadelphia because last night when I attempt d to check in online, my flight was nowhere to be found. After some anxious time on the phone with American Airlines, I was informed that the hurricanes were closing down much of the east coast to air travel. I am grateful that m family is safe and my home secure and I pray for those who are digging out or shoring up for the next storm.  As waves of “What was I thinking?” keep creeping into my consciousness, I am remembering the words of my 5:00 congregation, “Donut be afraid.” Every dunkin donuts, every pastry shop on the concourse screams out to me, “Don't be afraid.” I don't know that they'll ever know what a gift they gave me.  As God began something new in the birth of Jesus and the shepherds responded in terror, angels responded in chorus-Don't be afraid.  I'm about to do something new for me, but ancient for Christian&#

Just a few more days. One more trip to EMS to return stuff I overbought--jacket and fleece are probably over kill. One more trip to pick up a journal, chapstick, garbage bag.  The garbage bag is to pack the backpack so it doesn't get damaged in t a sit. Apparently I'll wrap it with a lot of duct tape. That will keep the straps safe. This is what the nice man at Field and Stream told me. I'm really going to do this. Thanks to my son in laws and my brother in law, Stewart I have the technology I'll need to stay in touch. Yay. I'm excited for what is ahead. These two weeks of prep took an interesting turn. I made a quick trip to see Brkki and do a few things to help her get ready to move to Holden Village with Marcus. I started a stole for Marcus. We celebrated my father in laws 90th birthday. In traveling to PA, I revisited the church in which I was baptized and confirmed and saw some extended family for a few moments. All in all an emotional rollercoaster. It s

9/9/2017 All this stuff- which does not yet include my blister kit and toothbrush-has to fit into my pack. But according to the oh so helpful folks at EMS, the compression bags will accomplish that feet. The shopping is finished and I have discovered amazing things, like solid shampoo and toothpaste tablets. Who knew such things existed?   I've walked about 8 miles each day this week and feel pretty good. I'm realizing how much stuff I have that I'll live quite well without for 45 days.  I'm also processing the fear of walking, literally, into the unknown and the joy of the adventure ahead; the liberation of sabbatical and the missing of my people. This week I've been meditating on the verse, "Be still and know that I am God," and realizing I'm not a still person. It's ok, I think, to keep moving and know and encounter God. It's ok to be uncomfortable and to experience God. It's glorious to wonder what's ahead and to be secure that

9/5/2017 Day one of my sabbatical. Technically, it's day 2, but yesterday was a holiday filled with food and friends. Today is the first day I didn't have to get up and go to the office or the hospital or a meeting. And it feels odd. I got up and made the mental list of things left to do. Narrowed it down to the things I choose to do today and then considered when I'd get in my walk. Then I decided my errands would be my walk. Two and a half hours later I had my new glasses, deposited my checks and walked over 5.5 miles. Despite my internal demons telling me to hurry along, there's more to do, I walked neighborhoods I never noticed. Flower beds are wilting, people are closing pools and winterizing boats. I walked past a school, though, and it was filled with life. There's more to do. Those inner demons continue their chant. But there's a cat trying to get on my lap and a book begging to be read. The other stuff can wait.